It’s best to add the nail polish remover a little at a time. Add more nail polish remover and repeat if necessary. Take the lid off and check the consistency. Once you have room, pour a little nail polish remover into the jar, replace the lid and shake it until it is mixed. There should be about an inch to an inch-and-a-half of space at the top of the jar. Here are some step-by-step photos showing the process: Start by emptying a little bit of the rubber cement out of the jar to make room for the nail polish remover. So, without further ado, let’s get started. If you try this, you do so at your own risk. Although rubber cement and nail polish remover may seem like common household products, it is important to remember that anytime you use chemicals there are potential hazards. Acetone can also cause damage to polished surfaces and certain types of plastic. Never use either product while smoking or around open flames. Rubber cement and acetone both give off dangerous fumes and should only be used in a well-ventilated area. It’s often cheaper, and will get the job done just as well as pure acetone.ĭisclaimer: Before you try this, be sure you educate yourself about the dangers associated with using acetone and rubber cement. To save even more money, you can use acetone-based nail polish remove instead of pure acetone. Acetone is cheap and easy to find at any store that carries nail polish. You can thin rubber cement using acetone. It’s also pretty expensive, which can completely defeat the purpose of making your own masking fluid.įortunately, however, there is another option. Typically art stores or hobby shops carry it. They sell commercial rubber cement thinner. Thinning the rubber cement makes it far easier to apply using a fine-tipped brush or even the end of a sharpened stick, a knitting needle, a quill or a bamboo skewer. However, plain rubber cement has one major drawback - it’s really thick and gloppy, which makes it difficult to use for protecting fine details such as hair, tiny highlights in eyes or flower stamen. When the paint is dry, just gently remove the rubber cement to reveal the paper underneath. All you have to do is apply it to the paper wherever you don’t want the paint to go, allow it to dry and then paint over it. Technically, if you want to keep things really simple you can just use rubber cement as masking fluid. If you make your own, however, all you need are a couple of ingredients that you can find at any big-box store. If you don’t have an art store nearby, finding masking fluid is practically impossible.
You can buy masking fluid at just about any art store. When the paint is dry, all you have to do is remove the masking fluid and the paper underneath is completely untouched by the paint. Rather than having to carefully paint around tiny highlights or intricate details, you can simply cover them with masking fluid and then apply paint directly over the top of them. Masking fluid is amazing for preserving the white of your paper or protecting details while you paint. I just don’t want your work getting ruined because of this suggestion! Thanks so much, and sorry for not knowing any better when I posted this. However, I have only been using this technique for about a year and half, so it still may be too soon. So far none of the pieces that I personally have used this on have discolored. I just wanted to post this disclaimer at the beginning so you know what you are getting into. I know there are some parts of the world where it is difficult to find masking fluid and this may be the only option. I will leave this post up in case you still want to try it.
This definitely defeats the purpose of using it to maintain the white of the paper. Apparently, over time, the rubber cement will cause the watercolor paper to discolor. One of my visitors was kind enough to email me about a problem that I was unaware of. Update: I am no longer recommending using rubber cement (even when thinned) as a masking fluid.
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